Methods of Fabric Decoration

Applique

Appliquer is a French term meaning to ‘put on' or apply. In appliqué, one layer of fabric is placed over another layer and is sewn in place, traditionally by hand. Appliqué is a decorative technique achieved either traditionally by hand or machine by superimposing patches of coloured or plain fabrics over a base fabric. The method used to secure the edges of the ‘laid down' fabric tends to define the method of appliqué, e.g. needle turn appliqué.
The main methods of appliqué are needle turn,buttonhole stitch,machine stitch, traditionally or by a freehand method.

Historical and Cultural Development of Applique

Appliqué is a traditional technique for decorating fabrics and is evidenced in history and across cultures of the world. To some ancient societies appliqué was considered a form of writing for recording information. Some believe that the idea of appliqué may have come from patching holes in worn garments or linens or perhaps for the purpose of imitating prized raised embroidery.

Applique Methods

The main methods of applique are:
  • Hand applique
  • Needle turn applique
  • Naïve appliqué using buttonhole decorative stitch
  • Hand or machine appliqué using a stabilizer
  • Reverse applique
  • Machine applique (traditionally or by a freehand method).

Reverse Applique

For reverse appliqué, shapes are cut from a fabric and applied to the reverse of the face fabric. The face fabric is then cut to expose the applied layer of fabric beneath.
  
Machine Applique
Machine appliqué is a quick and easy alternative to hand appliqué. The sewing machine can be used to open new creative possibilities in the appliqué technique.

Traditional machine stitches such as machine blind hem, satin stitch and any of the fancy stitches can be used to apply the motif to the background fabric.

Traditional stitches can also be used in a contemporary approach to machine appliqué.
One of the best stabilizers for machine appliqué is Vliesoflex. Before machining, the motif should be fixed using the Vliesoflex method.

For a machine satin stitch finish, sew with one stitch next to the patch edge and the side stitch dipping into the patch. For secure corners, the side stitch will fall at an angle. Turn the hand wheel and move the fabric manually to maneuver the corner.

For freehand machine appliqué, follow the machine instructions, e.g. drop dog feed, lower tension slightly and attach freehand machine foot. When using any of the machine embroidery threads available change the machine needle to one with a larger eye, e.g. top stitch needle or metalfil.

Concepts of Textile Designing

  • Investigating the influence of historical, cultural and contemporary developments on textiles.
  • Investigate the factors that determine the success or failure of designers.
  • Learn about changing trends in society that influence sources of inspiration for designers.
  • Investigate the cultural factors that influence design and designers.
  • Learn about fabric coloration and decoration

Overview of Textile Designing

Textile Design is not the same as textile production, although textile designers would benefit from working with various fabrics and materials. Textile designers create designs on textiles and they use fabrics, cloth, and upholstery to fashion a wide range of products. Textiles are the basis of linens, bathing products, fashion, interior design, and furniture. And, textiles have grown up to branch out into installation art.
So many different types of cloth and fibers are available today that many textile designers often specialize in a specific area.

    Textile Designers might work with knit designs

    Textiles Designers might create the patterns that you see on cotton or hemp fabrics.

Textile Designers might work with textiles that other designers have created to form new designs and patterns.

A person who enters the field of textile design can enter from within the field or as a graduate from a design school that focuses on textile design. The person who enters this field as an employee has the knowledge of a specific fabric under his or her belt. This allows that person the advantage of understanding how that specific fabric will respond to various treatments and uses.

The person who comes into this field at entry level must have classes in color theory, pattern design (different than pattern making), and a basic knowledge of most fabrics and materials. This knowledge can be obtained through courses that focus specifically on textiles. Often, you might find fashion designers or interior designers who gravitate to textile design to enhance their design ideas. On the other hand, many textile designers may enter the fields of fashion or interior design for the same reason to expand upon their design ideas.